Dogs are escape artists
Dogs don't see a fence the way you do. They see a challenge with four possible solutions: jump it, climb it, dig under it, or squeeze through it. A good dog fence closes all four doors. Here's how to think about each one.
Height: match the fence to the dog
Small dogs (under 25 pounds): a 4-foot fence is usually plenty. Most small dogs can't jump that high, and they're not strong enough to push through a well-built fence.
Medium dogs (25–60 pounds): go 5 to 6 feet. Athletic medium dogs — think border collies, boxers, pit mixes — can clear 4 feet when motivated. Six feet is the safe standard.
Large and athletic dogs (60+ pounds, or any serious jumper): 6 feet minimum. Some dogs can scale a 6-foot fence by climbing, so the design matters too — see below.
When in doubt, go taller. A fence that's "probably high enough" is how dogs end up in the street. Check our fence height rules guide — most backyards in Charles County can go to 6 feet.
Close the gaps
Under the fence: the gap at the bottom is escape route number one. The fence should sit close to the ground — no more than a couple of inches of clearance. On sloped yards, stepped panels leave triangular gaps at the low end; these need to be closed with boards, wire, or grading.
Between pickets: standard picket spacing keeps most dogs in, but small dogs and determined medium dogs can squeeze through surprisingly tight gaps. For small dogs, look for narrow spacing or a solid privacy design. For a privacy fence, gaps aren't an issue at all.
At the gates: gates are the weakest point of every dog fence. The latch must be dog-proof — not just closed, but latched in a way paws and noses can't open. Self-closing hinges are worth every penny. And the gap under a gate is often bigger than under the fence; add a threshold board or gate sweep.
Dig-proofing: stop the tunneling
Diggers are the hardest dogs to contain, because you can't see the escape route forming. Three approaches work:
Bury the fence. Extend chain link or wire mesh 12 to 18 inches below ground along the fence line. When the dog hits wire, most give up.
The L-footer. Lay wire mesh flat on the ground extending inward from the fence base, pinned down and covered with soil or sod. The dog digs at the fence line, hits mesh under its paws, and quits. This is the most effective dig-proofing for existing fences.
A concrete or paver strip. A narrow strip of concrete or pavers along the fence base looks clean and stops digging cold. It costs more but it's permanent and tidy.
Chain link vs. privacy for dogs
Chain link is affordable, tough, and easy to dig-proof by burying the mesh. Downsides: dogs can see everything, which means more barking at passersby — and athletic dogs can climb chain link like a ladder. For climbers, privacy is better. See chain link fences.
Privacy fences (wood or vinyl) block the view, which calms reactive barkers dramatically. They're harder to climb — no footholds — and they look better. Downsides: higher cost, and determined chewers can work on wood boards. Vinyl holds up better to chewing. See our wood vs. vinyl comparison.
Puppies, new rescues, and small dogs
Puppies are a special case: they're small enough to fit through gaps an adult dog can't, and they're motivated explorers. If you're fencing for a puppy, go with narrow picket spacing or solid panels from the start — don't plan to "fix it later," because later is when the puppy is already in the neighbor's yard. For new rescue dogs, assume the worst for the first few months: unfamiliar dogs test boundaries. A secure fence plus supervision while they settle in prevents the lost-dog nightmare.
What about cats?
Standard fences don't contain cats — they climb almost anything. If you want the cat safely in the yard, you need a cat-specific solution: a lean-in extension at the top of the fence (angled inward so the cat can't get over), roller bars, or a dedicated outdoor cat enclosure ("catio"). Tell us if cats are part of the plan and we'll design for them too.
Don't forget the "dog run" details
Make sure the fence is complete — dogs find the one section you didn't finish. Keep the latch side of gates locked or pinned. If you have a pool, the pool fence needs its own safety specs regardless of the dog. And remember: no fence replaces supervision for a new puppy or a known escape artist. The fence is containment; training is the rest.
Tell us about your dog when you fill out the form below — breed, size, and whether they're a jumper, digger, or chewer — and we'll design a fence that actually holds them.